Chanel nods at the circus in Paris haute couture show
By María D. Valderrama
Paris, Jan 24 (EFE).- Chanel’s creative director Virginie Viard brought hints of the circus to the runway as the fashion house twirled its Spring 2023 Haute Couture collection at Paris Fashion Week Tuesday.
The firm’s iconic tweed jacket was seen paired with minidresses, miniskirts and tophats in a collection where white and ivory reigned.
For the third time, French artist Xavier Veilhan was in charge of the set design which was a maze decorated with mobile sculptures of animals.
Veilhan said he was asked by the creative head of the brand to work “around the idea of Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment and her animal figures.
“I thought it was interesting to start from this and evoke our relationship with the animal, constantly evolving in our societies,” Veilhan told the audience.
The runway’s mise-en-scène comprises camels, lions, birds, horses and elephant figures made from cardboard and wood.
In contrast with the elaborate embroidery and rhinestone details typical of haute couture, Chanel’s accessories in this collection were a more sober affair.
The brand’s two-tone shoes made a comeback as moccasins, classic slingback heels, mid-calf laced white boots and golden ankle boots.
A delicate white wedding dress was paired with the gold boots and a semi-sheer veil embroidered with sequin swallows.
The evening dresses were simple, many with thin straps and round necklines in a lace fabric and gold rhinestones appliques.
The creations by Viard, who succeeded late designer Karl Lagerfeld in 2019 after being his right hand for several decades, are perceived as fresher and simpler than those of her predecessor.
Her pared back designs are compounded with simpler runways sets in a departure from Lagerfeld’s spectacular shows with scale reproductions of Parisian streets, beaches, mountains and even a spaceship.
The crowded show was attended by celebrities such as the all-powerful director of Vogue USA, Anna Wintour, and tennis player Roger Federer and the South Korean actress Kim Go-eun. EFE
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